jj420
Ex Member
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Id run the amp at 4x300 into 4 ohms, that way youd get the best of both worlds, both coils, and longer amplifier life. Its a WO so, youll need four channels of amplification to power all four coils. The coils are 4Ohms apeaice, so youd actually want 4x300 if your amp can do 4 channels, if not, then 2x1200 into a 2Ohm load or 2x300 into an 8Ohm load. The extended reasoning is below, but the short answer is, go with the 8 ohm load first, if thats not loud enough, then try only wiring one coil on each driver for a 4ohm load as i suggested at first, if thats STILL not loud enough (not likely) then you can rewire the coils to yeild 2 Ohms and run 2x1200 and plan on buying a new amp sooner rather than later, id really hesitate to run the amp into a 2ohm load, even if it says stable, they dont say for how long, and thats likely on a test bench with nitrogen cooling, test tones and vibration dampening, in a car, at 110kph on the highway, its a different story.
Manufacturers are not legally required to post notices of the effects of the different ways you can run them. Generally, if the amp is rated into 4 ohms, thats where your want to run it to maintain the duty cycle, you could wire the drivers to make 8 ohms, lose a mere 3db and actually extend the life of the amplifier, if its a cheap job, then you might even get improved sound from the increased headroom, as 8ohms would likey be around 400W max output for the amp, but it would run MUCH cooler, this is good, as class a amps run HOT, and AB isnt far behind. The point is, higher impedance = lower power, except half the power is only 3db less, barely perceptible, anyways lower power = cooler amp, cooler amp = cleaner, longer lived amp.
bridging an amp makes it run double hot, while 2400X1 into 2Ohms would be loud, your amp would likely die off quickly, especially if it was a bargain. Then theres the added effect of power compression when the coils heat up. With high power levels, the coils really do get HOT, and when they do that any subsequent power goes to heating them further, not moving the cone. This is the reason pro subs for SPL class competition use 4 or even eight voicecoils per driver, to get higher output because of cooler coils.
The WO presents the additional effect of controlling the woofer from both sides, like a BP4 box. This changes the rated power handling of the drivers, as well as the impedance curve, it is an easier box to power, and not "picky" however, you will need a high RMS because of the load presented by the box. In your case thats not likely to be an issue, unless that amp is grossly overrated...
If you plan on trying the 2400W configuration in your car, then remeber to use 2ga. or lower wire for the power and ground cables, otherwise youll get filaments instead of wires when the bass hits, skinny wires on the power and ground are one of the leading causes of crappy-systemitis, speaker wires dont need to be thick, theres little current, but 2400W would be like HUGE current, read the DC/DC primer at jaycar electronics website to see for yourself.
build on! (pics)
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