From what I have seen they should put out some very loud, low bass in the WO. The only major worry I would have is depth for mounting. When you slant the board to accommodate the cone, make sure the magnet will clear before you get too deep into construction.

Take care,
Robert

You've already got the box built? If not, build it bigger. If so....maybe add another layer to the front of the baffle?

EDIT: That may not work, depending on your build.

Another thought, once again depending how you built it, would be to make larger sides and mount them on the outside, in place of the existing. Tell me if the drawing below makes sense:



Or just cutout the space for the magnet, since you only need .25", then put a plate over it on the exterior.

Now, I'm one more for function than form, so consider that when reading my ideas. I don't care what my boxes look like, as long as they perform as intended.

Tokken wrote on 03/08/07 at 19:25:54:


i agree with you, find out where the magnet will touch, cut a hole big enuf to allow for the magnet and then useing mdf rings and mdf  circles, seal the hole from the outside. building it the way you stated (14 tall and 36x36) is the best way i believe.

but i might try the scale every number by 1.2 one day?

let us know how it works out please.

edit; if its only .25" off, you can sand that out with a grinder pretty easy, no need for any mods to the box. if you use 3/4 mdf -.25" your wall will still be 1/2" thick a lil fiber glass or epoxy and im positive it will be problem free for life.

my RE SE 12's fit.  I used double thick baffles with top mounted subs.

Tokken wrote on 03/09/07 at 14:04:00:


very interesting, can you tell us more about the subs and amps you used and what about the sound  was it (punchy peaky, gutless weak no lows no highs ?? etc etc) that sucked? im very supprised such a small deviation from the origional was so dissapointing, and i am seriously thinking about building it scaled by 1.2 so any thing you can offer about your experience i would appreciate.

Yeah, well perhaps i could have routed a hole i the cabinet but
I did it the hard way by drawing a kind of lump on the outside
next to the baffel. Now the subs can be mounted straight.
Well the bulid has been kind of slow since I installed
the amp in my car with my old box. A bandpass box..
Holy moly it hits sooo hard you wont believe. BUT!
the bulid must go on.. (sounds almost like a queen song?)
Well well I will update again when progress has been made.

Well, the Rockford in question from this thread has a mounting depth of just over 7" and needed mods to fit. I think 6" will go pretty close and anything under that should work without any mods. Seems like the ones that I remember from the past had close to 6" mounting depths.

Let us know how your customer likes it!

Take care,
Robert

djman37 wrote on 03/27/07 at 22:30:54:


what kind a wood is that? ^^    :-?

dbjunkies wrote on 03/29/07 at 03:04:24:


scaled up 2"  

the subs were my much loved RE SE12's.

dbjunkies wrote on 03/30/07 at 00:35:55:


sold them. I've got a herd of SPL subs right now
6 DD 95's and 2 Treo CSX 15's.  I'm trying to move my SPL gear out of my Xterra and get back to a good daily system in it.

the question about the WOOD is MDF.  Topped with double-wide closed cell foam.  good stuf.