veryoldcat
Seasoned Member
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dam*ed if you do, and dam*ed if you don't
Posts: 373
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First I can tell you the v-cap upgrade is quite dramatic. They're great at first, but then soften up with use. They seem a bit edgy with digital sources until they've been going for a while.
A nice thing to know is that the Wima's are attached with superglue. When you go to wiggle them out, they will seem very solidly attached, but then will come loose with a snap all of a sudden when you apply some muscle.
They're not terribly hard to remove, but the snapping loose of the brittle superglue bond can be a little unnerving, if you don't know it's coming.
When bending the leads on the v-caps, be careful, as they're quite stiff. You'll need to bend the leads up close to where they enter the body of the cap to make them fit. Whilst you bend, a good pair of electronics needle nose pliers is needed to hold the lead where it enters the cap to avoid stress on the lead/plate connection inside.
Some feel it is helpful to orient the outside plate of the cap towards ground, and the inside plate towards the plus side, thus using the outer plate like a shield to ground (some people think it matters and others think it a silly consideration). IIRC, the right hand side of the cap is the outer plate, when reading the data on the cap.
Karl
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SE84CS (vcapped), CSP, zbox, Dec685, ZP 1.0, Sota tt/Well-Tempered Arm/V15XMR, Parker 98's, Parker Audio *Power Chords*, cat 6 wires, OSX; a garage sale of other stuff...
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