gexter
Ex Member
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building tips
Q I might be able to deal with all the strange angles. I might even be able to build a "velocity disc". But I can't even begin to imagine what section F is meant to look like. There is no detail shown on the plans and the description is written in some sort of alien code (although it does say that it's very important). I've looked back on previous posts, and although this question has been asked before, I can't find an answer. I've also looked at as many photos as I can find ( including the great pictures from Mr Chips), but alas I'm none the wiser. Can anyone tell or better still show me what section F is meant to look like please ? P.S. Is section E meant to be distorted like that ?
A i dont have the plans in front of me right now but i think piece F is a small flat piece shaped kindof like half a D placed HORIZONTALY - half way up the pannel,it just stops the pannels flexing and allows the air to pass it by being sharp at one end! l l l F l l -- l l l l l ------------------------------------------- build it its amazing!
Q The panel I'm confused about is in the first section of the horn. just looked at my plans,we are talking about piece F? its a small piece, shaped like on the full sized plans, positioned as i showed you.its just a brace to stop the pannels flexing. Thank you 60, I can visualise it now...that's panel F sorted. Do you (or anyone else who's reading this) know if panel E is meant to have its axis offset, as it's shown in the plans ? And one other question, should panel M stick out above and below the velocity disc, as shown on the plans, or should it be cut flush, as shown in the picture in the WO32 home page (the picture of the red wood coloured box with the glass top) ? rat, panel e looks square on my plan(apart from the obcious curve)? and 90 degrees? panel m? cant see that one ? but i only have my full size plans in front of me.i will look for the smaller ones. Sorry, that was stupid of me, panel M is a designation I drew on my plans to aid myself. I meant the unnamed panel that makes up the inner wall of the second horn section ( it follows panel A) As for panel E, if I measure on my plans, from the axis to the edges the two edges are different lenghts. rat ,if you have the full scale plans i would just place your pannels on top and get as close as you can,thats what i did,my box is not perfect,some of the cuts were a bit off so i filled em with liquid nails,and sanded as nessesary.i tried to make the lengths and thicknesses and angles as close as i could,it works really well.its the desighn that makes the thing so good,not your carpentry skills,just use lots of glue and screws and it will work!.
I appreciate all your advice 60, you've been of great help. Now I'm starting to wonder why you are the only person who's built one of these things that seems willing to share their knowledge. I would still like to know if the unnamed panel that makes up the inner wall of the second section of the horn, should stick out above and below the velocity disc. Or be cut flush, as shown in the picture on the WO32 home page? And if panel "E" should have its axis offset as described in my previous post? Surely someone must be reading this that knows exactly what I'm talking about, and can give me a definative answer. 60 can't be expected to do all the work here (or maybe Decware should put him on the payroll).
thanks rat ,ill take a select in full and final. all the pannels are 12 deep and run from bottom to top/carpet(depending on if you use a lid or not) the velocity disk is a 9( if i remember rightly) inch disk with rounded / champherd edges that sits half way up the pannel it sits on? panel d is full depth with panel e half way up to diffuse back wave. keep asking till you understand Grin personally i think most people buy a ready made wo32,or they built one but it sounded c r a p so they cant tell you what goes where cos they built it wrong. thats why they cant answer your questions mine sounds killer on everything. Wink yours will to ...keep asking
es ,yes ,and yes. i have a lid on mine (wood not glass) screwed down tight with a fat seal.and yes i have the opening faceing down towards the floor.no doubt about it,(i have tried it every way) it sounds WWAAAYYYYYYYYYY lower faceing the floorHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuhHuh?.i dont understand it?? john f explained it in a recent thread but i still dont really understand why it sounds so much deeper when positioned that way? i have mine coverd with a blanket kinda thing with a light on top(disguised as a table Cool)
I am hoping that this close up detail view will help to clarify what part "F" is to resemble as well as the velocity discs & the two small corner "anti flex" braces which mount in the narrowest region of the horn flares. The two smaller wedge looking items opposing each other (fwd of the velocity discs) are parts "F". Requires 1 each side. You can not see them in my assembled photo's due to the depth of insertion, however, they are installed and are too critical to delete.
Glad you liked the site. The primary purpose is for other builders to compare notes on the diy projects. Thanks for the compliment. I wish that I had taken high resolution close up photo's of the parts in question. As it is said, a picture is worth a thousand words! Anyway, I think that I can once and for all clarify the distinction of part "F" and also sum up the mystery behind the edge blending behind the velocity discs. Follow this simple procedure and this will become obvious to you as a coherent visual perspective of part "F". Get out your full size plans and locate the outline for part "F". Next: place a sheet of white paper over that section and carefully trace the outline of the blueprint onto the paper so that you capture it's entire shape and blend lines. Try to keep the dimension as exact as possible to the drawing. If the physical size is any other than that of the proposed part, it will not fit, therefore rendering it as useless in it's sole purpose. This part is important and it must NOT be deleted or altered. This piece is 1 of 2 brace parts which control flexing within EACH horn flare. If you examine the foremost "knife-edge" corner between the outer perimeter and the driver baffle (narrow end of horn flare) you will notice a small corner piece cut to sandwich and stiffen that junction. Next: Cut the duplicated "copy" out that was traced and be sure that it matches the original drawing dimensions. DO NOT cut the inner line as that is merely a reference for the rounded edge of which must be shaped at a 45 degree angle. Imagine looking at an exaggerated knife blade edge and realize that in order to be sharp, the blade is essentially beveled to produce that sharp edge. Does that make sense? Now, place the cut out traced section onto a piece of 3/4" MDF and retrace the outline onto it. you should be showing the outer curved line as well as the inner "parallel" line onto your MDF. Next: Cut out the part around the trace lines (outer only). After the cut is made, you should still be showing the inner trace line on the part (approximately 1/4" from the outer rounded edge which you just cut). This line is only visible as a pattern to gauge how far that the bevel is angled back from the bottom of the part to the top. continues
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